Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Traveling with a Large Dog ... Then and Now


More than a half century ago, American writer John Steinbeck (if you were awake in high school, you may remember The Grapes of Wrath) took off on a road trip with Charley, his middle-aged French poodle. A bit past middle age himself, age 58, Steinbeck said he wanted to recapture America.

In Travels With Charley you can read about his trip, the people he met, and the three-quarter-ton truck on which Steinbeck built a house-like cabin, much like you would find on a small boat. He named his truck Rocinante after Don Quixote’s horse. The idea was to stay in campgrounds. There were no big box stores in 1960, much less Walmart parking lots where so many of today’s RVs adventurers find a place to spend the night.

Photo courtesy National Steinbeck Center, Salinas, Calif.

It wasn’t long after Steinbeck’s trip that my husband and I took our first cross-country road trips. My husband and his college friends rambled between Portland, Ore.’s Reed College and New York City in his Rambler American. As for me, in 1962, our family moved from southern Virginia to southern California in our Dodge Coronet. I wasn’t yet a California girl, but I knew enough to be mortified of our family car's pink and white color scheme.

They don’t make ’em like that any more. And, road trips, whether with poodles, friends or family, are far different than when Steinbeck and Charley criss-crossed the nation.

What’s different?

For one, the 47,000-mile Eisenhower Interstate Highway System is completed. Authorized just a few years before Steinbeck and Charley left Long Island, Steinbeck likely navigated Rocinante on blue highways and state roads, which gave him a closer view of people and places.

Two, motor vehicle travel is much safer now, by a factor of five. (Full disclosure:  My pre-retirement job was writing for the National Transportation Safety Board.) Today, the fatality rate on U.S. highways is about 1.1 per 100 million vehicle miles traveled compared with 5.1 when Steinbeck and Charley were traveling.

Motor vehicles remain the riskiest form of interstate travel, but today’s cars and highways are better designed and built and include seat belts, air bags, anti-lock brakes, and many other safety advances. Today’s drivers…well, that’s another story.

Three, there are now many more places where Charley could rest his head instead of getting his middle-aged bones up to Rocinante’s cabin.

Today, there are thousands of hotels, motels, lodges, inns, B & Bs and more that are pet friendly. There are also a growing number of restaurants and retail establishments that recognize that welcoming Fido is good business. Americans spend up to  $60 billion annually on their pets.

I’m paying close attention to these trends as we plan our cross-country trip with Piper, our middle-aged (I’m being kind; she’s 12) Chesapeake Bay Retriever. Just tap a few keys and you’ll find great resources for pet-friendly travel, including:  




When you’re looking for a place to hang your heads, as well as your pet’s, it’s important to read the small print. Pet friendly doesn’t mean all pets or all shapes and sizes. At the vet last week Piper weighed in at 63.8, which makes her, say, 63.5 lbs. without her collar. That is still way over the 20-lb. maximum some hotel chains stipulate. There’s also a range of non-refundable fees, ranging from about $25 to $75. And, you need to travel with papers – I’m not talking toilet training or AKC – but a record of current vaccinations.

There are great resources available from pet bloggers. I’ve found several; these two offer great tips on traveling with pets (somewhere in the middle of southwest Texas Piper will be glad I read these):



As I research the options on our proposed route, I’m encouraged by IHG’s Candlewood Suites, both its locations and its pet policy

Piper doesn’t need to slim down to meet Candlewood’s 80-lb. maximum.

Fifty years after Steinbeck’s trip, journalist Bill Steigerwald retraced Steinbeck’s trip to match people and places with what Steinbeck chronicled in his book.  Steigerwald’s fact checking found that Steinbeck stayed in motels a lot, sometimes at fancy hotels.

That’s okay, it’s still a great book. But, what about Charley? He was along for the ride in a less pet-friendly period.

Where did Charley sleep when Steinbeck was at the Spalding Inn?

I don’t know about Charley, but I do know about Piper.

Thanks to the increasingly pet-friendly travel industry, Piper won’t be sleeping in the Subaru. She’ll be on her own bed near us. Now, that’s progress.

Have bed, will travel.



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